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www.MooreTravel.co.uk Château de Versailles - Paris City Break Travel Guide |
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Photo taken on
a weekend city break of
the Château de Versailles in Paris France PRINT OFF THIS PAGE and take my Paris travel guide with you. |
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Paris City break
Go to Paris on the Eurostar train |
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Once you have found your seat on the Eurostar train go and find the buffet car. They sell a book of ten Paris Metro tickets. Buy them early as they sell out fast. It saves you having to queue at the ticket machines and you do not have to have the correct change. That annoys me about the Paris Metro ticket machines. They do not take notes just coins. Most tourists when they arrive in Paris only have notes in their purse or wallet as currency exchange bureaus do not give coins. If you arrive early in the morning or late at night the ticket offices are closed. If you do not have the correct coins or credit card you are stuck, unable to buy a metro ticket. You need one ticket per journey. It doesn’t matter how many times you change trains. It is cheaper to buy a book of ten metro tickets than each ticket individually. Remember to reset your watch as France is one hour ahead of the United Kingdom. The Gare du Nord International railway station is in the north of Paris. It is on a number of Metro routes so you can get to where you want to go very easily. The station and the surrounding area has been improved since the first time I visited Paris using the train. There are now a number of reasonable restaurants opposite the front entrance ranging from McDonalds to a posh French seafood restaurant. If you are getting the evening train get back to the station early and eat in one of these establishments. That way you do not have to panic that you might miss your train. Text Paris Montmartre and the Artist Quarter Montmartre means the mountain of the martyr. Saint Denis was decapitated on the highest hill in Paris about 250AD. He was a missionary sent by the early Christian church of Rome in to convert the Gaul and Roman pagans in France. He became the Bishop of Paris. Denis, upset the powerful pagan priests by his many conversions. This lead to his execution by beheading. The location was chosen as it was believed to have been a pagan holy place. According to the religious stories on the lives of the Saints dated from around 1220, after Saint Denis had his head chopped off, he picked it up and walked two miles, preaching a sermon. The place where he stopped and died was made into a small shrine that developed into the Saint Denis Basilica, It became the burial place for the kings of France. Another account has his corpse being thrown in the river Seine, but recovered and buried later that night by his converts. He became the patron Saint of France. The cry "Saint Denis, Saint Denis” often combined as "Montjoie! Saint Denis!" became the war-cry of the French armies. Paris La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre The front steps and balcony of La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre offers some of the best views over Paris. The road called Rue Maurice Utrillo is to the right of the La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre if you are looking at it from the front. It is one of the most photographed streets in Paris because of its picturesque steep flights of steps, old street lights, handrail and attractive town houses. Montmartre Cemetery Paris Place du Tertre - the Artist Quarter The Place du Tertre gets its name because it is situated on top of a " tertre ", which means a small hill. It is best to visit the Place du Tertre Artist Quarter in the morning to avoid the crowds The Place du Tertre at night can be a romantic location to visit with your sweetheart. On hot summer days this is a gorgeous place because the big trees offer shade in the summer. The cobbled streets that surround the square are lined with typical French old style cafes. Small tables with chequered tablecloths and chairs are placed outside to attract customers. Ancient looking black iron lamppost add to the ambience. The central square area is full of artist paint pictures and trying to sell completed work to passing tourists. Many set up a mini studio where they paint or draw portraits. Sitting outside one of the cafes or Bistros, sipping on a beer and watching the artists at work is my favourite past time on Paris. At the end of the Nepolionic war the Russian army occupied Montmartre during their invasion of Paris. They used the heigth of the hill to place their artillery units to enable them to bombard the city. If you look carefully there is a memorial plaque on one of the cafes that says: On 30 March 1814 - here the Cossacks first launched their famous "Bistro" and thus on this summit occurred the worthy ancestor of our Bistros. A bistro, originally meant a small restaurant serving reasonably priced simple meals in a modest setting. Bistros were defined mostly by the type of foods they serve. Slow-cooked braised meats dishes are typically served in Bistros. The word bistro is believed to be derived from the Russian word which means quickly. The demanding Russian cossacks who wanted to be served quickly would shout "bystro." Does that mean that the French Bistro was the world’s first fast food joint? The Montmartre Vineyard Paris Cabaret Au Lapin Agile Paris Montmartre Museum Directions The Paris Windmills of Montmartre The windmill "Blute-fin" was built in 1622 and often repaired. The name comes from the French verb "bluter" which means to sift flour. In 1814, during the siege of Paris one of the owners strongly defended the windmill against Russian Cossacks. They killed him and nailed him to the sails of the windmill. In 1870, the owner Charles-Nicolas Debray, added a guinguette, a popular style of drinking establishments with a dancing room. It was called "Moulin de la Galette". Guinguettes outside the city limits of Paris were popular because they offered public dancing and cheap alcohol which was not available inside the limits. It was later used as a music-hall, French public TV radio and television studios. It was closed in 1974 and is now private property. In 1717 the "Radet" windmill was built.. It was used as a guinguette on Sundays and public holidays in the 19th century. In 1924, its owner moved the windmill to the corner of Rue Girardon and Rue Lepic. It was restored in 1978, but is not running. Renoir and other artists painted scenes from the Guinguette. Directions Paris Moulin Rouge Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral Notre Dame is built on l'Ile de la Cite, the island in the middle of the river Seine. This is where the city of Paris was founded. This stunning Gothic masterpiece took approximately 170 years to complete. You must go in even if it is just to admire the stunning stained glass "rose" windows. It is staggering that in the mediaeval period they hand no modern tools or cranes yet still managed to build this amazing building. The first time I went to Paris I arrived on a very early train from the Alps with my climbing friends. I was sitting at a café next to the Cathedral having a beer at 6am when to our amazement a man in a wheelchair was pushed into the cathedral entrance by two priests before it was open. He was a hunchback. That is a true story. If you have seen the Disney version of the Hunchback of Notre Dame you will know that the cathedral is also famous for its various gargoyles. To get a closer look at them go on the Towers tour. 255 steps take you to the "Gallery of chimeras”. The numerous gargoyles and funny-looking chimeras, sticking their tongues out at Paris below, make for really great pictures! The only problem is that a grid has been added, to stop people from jumping. These gargoyles are actually not 'gargoyles' but are 'grotesques'. The word gargoyle derives from the Latin word Latin word "gurgulio", which literally means throat and also the sound water makes passing through the throat. So a gargoyle is a decorative spout, to convey water away from the sides of buildings. A 'grotesque' is a similar figure, but doesn't have the function to lead away water from these types of cathedrals. So I should call them the 'grotesques of the Notre-Dame' instead. You take 147 more steps to reach the bell tower, where you can see "Emmanuel", the biggest bell of Notre-Dame. It weighs 28,000 pounds. This is where Quasimodo, the hero of Victor Hugo's popular story "The Huntchback of Notre-Dame" published in 1831 was supposed to have lived. The tour ends on top of the 69 m tall left tower. You will have a great view of the spire and of the city all around. The Cathedral is open every day of the week, and admission is free. It costs 5.50 Euros to go on the Towers tour but you can use your Museum Pass if you have one. Get there early as the queues of tourist get long very quickly. People are often turned away at the end of the day. Notre-Dame receives 14 million visitors per year, an average of 40.000 every day. As you look at the front of Notre Dame visitors enter by the right door. You move in an anti clockwise direction around the nave and choir and eventually towards the exit by the door on the left side of the frontage. Notre-Dame is dark inside even when there is sunshine outside. If your camera can change the ISO film speed setting set it to 400 or 800 to enable you to take photos in low light settings. To avoid camera shake rest your camera against one of the columns or a bench. Make sure you rest the ISO film speed to auto or 100 when you get back outside to daylight. The only way to avoid the tourist crowds is to visit in the winter. When I re-visited Notre-Dame during December, there were no queues outside and relatively few people inside. Do not forget to walk round to the public garden. Even if you are not interested in gardens go and have a look at the east end for a view of the gothic flying buttresses supporting the choir, and then along the riverside under the south transept. In springtime you can sit under the cherry blossom. On the pavement by the west door of Notre-Dame is a spot known as kilometre zero. This is where all of the main road distances in France are calculated. The square separating Notre Dame from Paris City Police Headquarters, is what appears to be the entrance to an underground toilet. It is not what it seems. It is in fact am interesting museum called the Crypte Archeologique. You will see the remains of the church which predated the cathedral, as well as streets and houses of Paris dating as far back as the Roman era. When walking around the square be aware of pick pockets and scam artists. These villains know where the tourists flock and it is a target rich environment for them. On my last visit two different groups of east Europeans tried it on. One tried to distract me whilst his friend got near the back of my rucksack. The other two were female and tried the gold wedding ring trick again. ‘Hello have you dropped this gold ring?” They show you a polished fat copper ring used in plumbing. “Is it yours? They ask, “No? I do not want it. Would you like to buy it off me for 20 Euros? It looks like it would be worth 150 Euros in the shop.” Yeah right. The correct price would be a few cents. Directions The Lourve Palace The new glass pyramid entrance to the Louvre Museum is one of those features you either love or hate. I adore it. It’s the juxtaposition of modern sleek reflective hard lines against the ornate decorated walls of the Lourve Palace that I feel complement each other because of the stark contrast in their design. If you are visiting Paris with children they will enjoy putting their hands in the many ponds that surround the pyramid. The longest queues to get into the Louvre are at the Pyramid main entrance. If it is raining you will get very wet. On rainy days queue at the underground entrances by the Galerie du Carousel, 99 rue de Rivoli, with a connexion to the Metro station and by the Carousel gardens. If you have not already done so buy a ‘Carte Musees et Monuments’ museum pass in the Tourist Welcome Centre in the underground Galerie du Carousel. Get there early and start queuing before opening time at 9am. The longest queues are between 10am and 12 noon. Avoid the first Sunday of every month as the entrance is free and the queues are huge. The rules on taking photographs in the Lourve have changed. You are now allowed to take still and video photography so long as it is for private use only. The use of flash or other means of artificial lighting is prohibited so turn off your automatic flash. Adjust the ISO sensitivity of your camera if you can to a higher number to enable you to take photos in the muted light of the galleries. Turn the ISO auto setting off and adjust to 400 or 800 Be prepared to be disappointed at the size of the Mona Lisa painting and annoyed at the amount of people around her. The thick protective glass does not enhance your viewing. One of the surprises to be found at this French national museum of art are the preserved foundations of the medieval castle that once stood in this location in the basement. The castle was there to protect the people of Paris when Viking long ships sailed up the River Seine to attack and plunder the city. More than 50.000 objects can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre. It is the second largest in the world after Cairo. This is not surprising as the collection started with Napoleon Bonaparte's expedition to Egypt between 1798 and 1801. Many looted items found their way back to Paris. The very talented French linguist Jean-François Champollion was the genius who worked out how to translate the ancient Egyptian writing back in 1822. He was appointed curator of a new Egyptian department in the Louvre that was inaugurated in 1827 under King Charles X. Hôtel des Invalides & Napoleon's Tomb The Emperor Napoléon died from poisoning in exile on the island of St Helena 5th May 1821. He was buried on the island until 1840 when King Louis-Philippe decided to transfer the body back to Paris. The body of the Emperor Napoléon I was finally laid to rest in his new tomb in the gold domed church of Hôtel des Invalides in 1861. The Dome Church also houses two of Napoléon's brothers, Jérôme and Joseph Bonaparte, Napoléon's son, as well as Marshals Ferdinand Foch Allied Supreme Commander World War I and Sebastien Le Prestre de Vauban’s heart. Vauban is one of my heros. He changed the landscape of Europe. He used science to bring a revolution in the design of military fortifications. Because of his work in the mid 1600’s tall castles were no longer constructed. Low walled star shaped forts that gave better protection from artillery sprung up all over Europe. The Hôtel des Invalides also houses the Musée de l'Armée, the military museum of the Army of France, the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, and the Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine. Even if you are not interested in military history you must visit the Napoléonic section of the Musée de l'Armée even if it is just to see the attractive gaudy uniforms of Napoléon's Army. You can also see his uniform including that famous black hat. It brings history alive. In 1670 King Lois XIV ordered that a hospital and church be built in Paris to help aged and unwell soldiers. It became the magnificent Hôtel des Invalides. Not to be out done in 1682 King Charles II of England ordered the Royal Hospital In Chelsea to be built and in 1694 King William of England ordered the military hospital in Greenwich to be constructed. Paris Champs Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe The Champs Elysées leads to the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile. It is the world's largest triumphal arch being 51 meters in height and is 45 meters wide. The structure was inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus; designed by Jean François Thérèse Chalgrin. It was commissioned by Napoleon to commemorate France's military victories in 1805 after napoleon's victory in the battle of Austerlitz. By the time Napoleon's Empire fell, the Arch still hadn't been completed. It was finished under Louis-Philipe in 1836 and now serves to honour all French soldiers and commemorate France's victories. In 1920, on Armistice Day, the tomb of the unknown soldier was added at the foot of the Arch, next to an eternal flame that burns in memory of all those who were killed during the two World Wars and haven't been identified. It is France’s main war shrine. Not many people realise you can go up to the top. There is a museum covering the history of the monument and also significant moments in the history of France. To get up to the platform roof you have to climb 284 steps but the view is worth it. There is an entrance fee charged. On important occasions, a huge French flag is hung from the ceiling inside the Arch. It looks good at night and is open lat in the evening. The Arc de Triomphe is surrounded by 12 great avenues converging in a star shape. Do not try to cross the road. Look for one of the tunnels that goes under the street Paris Eiffel Tower Any visit to Paris wouldn't be complete without a visit to see the Eiffel Tower. If you are on a day trip do not waste your valuable time queuing in the incredibly long lines of tourist to get a ticket. Be content with looking at the tower from the outside. If you are in Paris for longer get up early and be prepared for a long wait. It is called la Tour Eiffel in French. la Tour Eiffel was built for the 1889 World Fair by Gustave-Alexandre Eiffel, the French engineer, famous mainly for his iron bridges. It was not meant to be a permanent feature. It weights 7,000 tones, being made of 15,000 pieces fitted together by 2,500,000 rivets. At first many Parisians hated the big mass of metal when it was first erected. It is recorded that French writer Guy de Maupassant disliked it so much that he ate at the tower's restaurant nearly every day because it was the only place in Paris where he couldn't see the tower! It's also worth seeing it during the day and then going back at night to see it all lit up and to watch when the flashing lights go on - it sparkles each hour on the hour for about 10 minutes. It is much cheaper to climb up the stairs and you avoid the long lines waiting for the elevator. You have to climb 345 steps to get to the first level, and another 359 steps to get to the second level. Do be aware that the stairs only go up to the second level, so if you want to go all the way to the top you're going to have to pay again to use the elevator. If you do not want to walk up the steps or physical cannot, you'll find elevators in two of the Eiffel Tower’s pillars. The first landing provides a view over the rooftops at 189ft - 57.63 meters. There are Souvenir shops, a restaurant ‘Altitude 95’ named because it's 95m above sea level (tel- 01-45-55-20-04) and Post office, with special "Paris Eiffel Tower " stamps. The 2nd landing offers a panoramic look at the city at 379ft - 115.73 meters. You can use Telescopes to explore the view and again there are more shops. There is also an extremely expensive Restaurant called Jules Verne (tel- 01-45-55-61-44). The 3rd landing can pnly be reached by elevator and is at 905ft 11 inches - 276.13 meters. On a clear day you can see for 40 miles – 64km If you really want to eat in the very expensive Jules Verne restaurant phone for a reservation at least 2 months in advance. You cannot use your ‘Carte Musées et Monuments’. Paris Cinema Tips Museum Pass is a must Paris Château de Versailles From 1661 the young King Louis XIV had his architects rebuild the early Versailles royal residence. In 1682, the Château de Versailles became the official residence of the Sun King and his Court , replacing the Louvre and Saint-Germain Castles. Versailles ' fabulous gardens and park are almost as spectacular as the palace. Le Nôtre designed this Versailles garden including fountains, jets, waterfalls, statues, water parterres, formal gardens, Grand Perspective and Grand Canal, to set off the palace’s architecture. It gets very crowded so be prepared! Go early because the line of visitors gets very long. Versailles is located about 20 km west of Paris. Just take a 30-minute ride on the RER train, Line C, to Versailles Rive Gauche Station, the last stop on the line. This station brings you within a 10 minute walk of the famous Chateau of Versailles and the Hotel de Ville. In Versailles, turn right as you exit from the train station and then left on Avenue de Paris - this will take you all the way up to the main entrance. Try to allow an entire day for your visit because once you have finished touring around the palace of Versailles, you can head over to the gardens for a nice picnic before visiting the Grand and Petit Trianon and walking over to Marie-Antoinette's hamlet. If you buy an RER/Versailles combo pass that includes a return train ticket and quick access to all the Versailles buildings. The advantages of this ticket is there is no need to wait in line when you get there. You also get an audio-guide for the visit of the Palace. You can buy this pass at the information booth located in the RER station. It is a really good deal if you plan on visiting the entire estate. If you have not purchased the RER/Versailles combo pass before walking up to the entrance to Versailles stop at the Gift Shop where they sell the tickets to get in. Buy them there. Then just go to the ticket holders entrance and give them your ticket. If you decide to get the tickets at the palace entrance be prepared to wait a long time in line no matter what the season. On any given day, over 20,000 people could be walking the grounds around the palace. The Sun Kin Louis XIV quickly realized that he needed a place to go to escape from Versailles life. In 1687, the Grand Trianon was built for the king and his immediate family. Although it is much smaller than the palace, it is just as elegant. In 1768, the Petit Trianon had been built earlier by Louis XV. It was meant to be a gift to the king's favorite, Madame de Pompadour; however, she died before its completion. Louis XVI offered it to his queen Marie-Antoinette. She loved this "little country house". Nearby the King built the "Queen's hamlet". The hamlet was basically a small country village, complete with a farm where Marie-Antoinette would milk her cows and enjoy the quiet country life with children. It was built in 1783 The palace gets very crowded so it's quite nice to escape to other parts of the estate. There are a few snack bars in the gardens where you can buy a baguette at a fairly reasonable price considering where you are, and nothing beats lying down by the Grand Canal after walking throughout the gardens. If you don't feel like walking it's possible to rent bikes, hop on the little train, or even rent a paddle boat to go on the canal, but all of these are rather expensive. So just make sure to wear comfortable walking shoes and you're good to go! The park and the gardens open every day except in bad weather from 7 a.m. in summer, 8 a.m. in winter, until sunset. If you go to Versaille on a Sunday a short walk from the palace into the town you will find a market. There were stalls which sold nothing but lots of different types of mushrooms, There were also stalls selling all the different types of cheeses and others selling sausages and pate. When we bought something and they found out we were English they put extra goodies in our bag for nothing. I got some sausage and some fruit extra. I was really please with how nice and friendly they were compared to when we in the heart of Paris where the people seemed very rude and unfriendly.On the way down to the market place there were also lots of little shops like teddybear shops and antique. Walk straight down to the bottom of the huge palace car park where the brasseries are located and follow the road behind them. Turn right down a street where there are grocery shops and go down a side street. Paris Saint-Germaine-Des-Prés Paris Musée D’Orsay Paris Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) and La Marais Paris Boulevard Haussmann Paris Open deck boat trip Paris Musee de l'Orangerie Jardin des Tuileries Paris Grand Palais and the Petit Palais avenue Winston Churchill Paris Musee du Quai Branly 37 quai Branly Paris Modern Art Museum Catch the No.24 bus A grand view for free Paris fashion shows Paris Flea markets
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