Marrakech Travel Guide

Marrakech
With more budget airlines like Easyjet offering cheap flight ticket deals to Marrakech in Morocco, North Africa more and more tourists from Europe will be exploring the sights of this interesting Arabic city. There are dangers of being ripped off. The locals are after your money. You need to research the local scams and pit falls by reading my guide. The modern clean tourist hotel accommodation can be found around the outside of the city. They are mainly of a good standard and reasonably priced. You can even buy beer and wine in the hotels in this 'dry' Islamic country.

Marrakech Menara Airport
You have to complete a green landing card so pack a pen in your hand luggage. Have the address of your hotel handy. Where it says date of delivery on the form it means date the passport was issued. Passport control can take a long time as they have to process all these cards and stamp each passport with a unique entry number. When you leave the country look around in the departure lounge for the police departure cards. This time they are white. Fill them in before you get to passport control. Otherwise you will be turned back and have to queue again once you have completed the form. You will need one for each person.

You cannot exchange Moroccan Dirham money outside the country. As soon as you pass customs you will see the queues for the Airport currency exchange banks. I was surprised at how good the rates were. There was also very little difference between the buying and selling rates. Ask for some small change rather than all notes as you will need it to tip the hotel porters. If you do not want to wait in the lines the Taxis will take Euros. You can then exchange your money at your hotel.

Marrakech Taxi’s
Taxis are cheap. There are two types of taxis in Marrakech. The small tan coloured Peugeot hatchbacks that will take 3 people and the larger tan coloured Mercedes that can take four. The smaller cars are cheaper if there are just the two of you. They very rarely use the meter. Set the price before you get in. Most speak French and some English. Tell them the location you want to go to and then tell them how much you want to pay. In 2007 20 Dirhams would get me most places within the city. Do not ask the price as they will start high and you have to haggle. Taxis do not operate inside the old city walls as the streets and alleys are too small. If you wanted to go to the Menara Pavillion flag down a taxi and say “Menara Pavillion Twenty Van?” (Vingt is French for twenty pronounced VAN) At the Airport if you have more than one large suitcase hire a tan coloured Mercedes taxi. Tell the taxi driver the name of your hotel and say “sixty soixante?” (pronounced SWA SONT) They may try for “one hundred cent” (pronounced ‘SONT’ in French). The airport is very near the city.

During my trip I did have two problems with Taxis dropping me off at the wrong location normally near shops where the Taxi driver will get a backhand from the owner for bringing customers to his shop. Use your map to check where you are going. If the taxi driver starts talking to you and you do not quite understand do not say ‘yes’ as you maybe agreeing to a detour or employing him as a guide. Just say ‘no’ and repeat where you want to go.

At night if a taxi driver says the price has gone up due to the hour of the day and the same trip that cost you 20 dirham is now 40 dirham just walk away. Stop another taxi and say the location you want to go to and the amount you want to spend. You might find the taxi driver come after you as he has changed his mind and will take you for the normal rate.

General Tips
Be very careful crossing the road on pedestrian crossing areas. The cars and mopeds will not stop for you. Apart from the Taxis Morocco is not as cheap as I thought. When walking down the small congested shopping alleys of the Marrakech souks beware of the mopeds that zoom in and out of the pedestrian traffic. You are in a desert where temperature changes can be dramatic. Pack warm clothing. You may want to consider returning to your hotel just before dusk to collect your warm clothing to save having to carry it around with you all day. The taxis are so cheap and you can also take the opportunity to have a beer by the pool as you watch the sunset and use the hotels clean toilets.

Do not bring back any animal skins (apart from Leather). Customs will take it from you, issue you with a fine and you could even go to jail. If you buy any of the skins it will only encourage them to go out and kill another rare endangered animal. If the demand is stopped the supply will hopefully end. Most people speak French and a bit of English. If you are in a restaurant and you get a blank look when you ask for the bill say in French “l'addition svp” (lur addition siv ooo play).

Sometimes shop and restaurant staff are easily distracted and rudely start talking to someone else. You have to be forceful and demand attention. To them you are just another tourist. Although Morocco is a dry country non Muslims can still buy and drink alcohol. The local Marrakech beer called Flag Special is good. If you like bigger not so strong cup of black coffee rather than the small strong espresso coffee ask for a café americano. Use a polarised filter on your camera to bring out the deep blue in the sky. Ask your hotel reception desk what excursions they can organise.

Women - What to wear!
If you wear revealing western clothing you will attract unwanted attention and possible hostility. You are in a Muslim country where it is expected that women wear clothing that covers their legs, arms, collarbone and in some cases head and face. If you wear sleeveless tops, shorts, mini skirts, above the knee skirts, tight fitting tops or cleavage revealing tops you will get hassled. Pack carefully as your designer T-shirt and lovely V-neck sweater may be interpreted as disrespectful in Marrakech. Loose long-sleeved blouses and ankle-length skirts are a good choice. A good tip is to take a pashmina scarf or something similar and use it to cover your head and shoulders. You will give the impression of being a European woman who lives and works in Morocco who is showing respect to the local sensibilities.

There is no law stating what you can and cannot wear. If you go with the attitude that no Muslim male dominated society is going to dictate what you wear, expect to be stared at, followed by groups of males and possibly attacked by older Muslim females for showing too much skin. Muslim men think nothing of hassling foreign women. To them it is a sport. Being aggressive and trying to tell them to get lost can just make the situation more amusing for them. If you want to enjoy your holiday dress sensibly.

Orange Juice
The fresh orange juice is to die for. Go to the main square ‘Place Jemaâ-el-fna’. It is safe to drink as no water is added. It is 100% pure fresh orange juice. The stall holder will cut the oranges in half in front of you and place them on a juicer machine and extract the natural liquid.

Souks and Shopping
Where do you start you trip to Marrakech? Get a taxi to the main square ‘Place Jemaâ-el-fna’. If you cannot pronounce the name just ask the taxi driver to take you to the Grand Place. The fresh orange juice is to die for! Buy a fresh orange juice from one of the stalls and then enter one of the souk alleyways on the north side of the square. These are the ones on the other side of the square opposite the big bank. Head for the Marrakech Museum looking at all the shops as you go.

Different sections of the souks specialise in different products. The whole old town is like a giant department store. You go to a certain section to buy that one item you want. One alley is full of shoe sellers, another ceramics, another leather goods, another clothing and so on.

Take it easy and don’t overdose on shopping in the souks. Head back for the main square and find a café with a roof top terrace and have a coffee or cold drink whilst you watch the world go by. During the heat of the day the alleyways of the souls are cooler than the exposed sections of the city. The souks are normally covered and provide shade and protection from the sun.

The souk shop staff normally eat at their place of work from one large communal plate or pot. They sit or squat around it and eat with their hands. This is not a good time to try and buy something. The individual shops are tiny. There are no storerooms attached to the shop. The shop staff sit outside the shops. This is very much like the shops in Ancient Rome. If you go to the ruins of Pompey in Italy the design of the shops are very similar.

Some of the goods on sale are shoddy. Check them out carefully. The craftsmen are not encouraged to spend more time making them as they have found that tourists still buy the poorly made items. Most of the locals believe Allah has sent these foreign fools for them to partake of.

Many of the goods are of an amazing quality that have taken many days to make. If you are lucky you will be able to see crafts men at work using the old traditional methods. It is like travelling back in time before the industrial revolution. Carpenters sit on the floor and turn a lave with a string bow and carve wood into chess pieces or handles using a chisel held in their toes. Men can be seen working metal. They first beat it into shape and then apply intricate designs, In some parts of the town you can find young women making carpets on big vertical looms. If you are lucky they will invite you to sit with them and have a go yourself. They teach you how to knot the different wools and beat them down. Please give them a good tip. It takes them one month to make one carpet. These hard working girls are not well paid and showing tourists how to weave is one of the ways they can feed their families.

Chickens destined for that evenings meal are sold live. If you look carefully you will also see chameleons, turtles and lizards for sale. You will hear the songs of many birds as you walk around the Souks as many shops have captured song birds in small cages.

Try to find the carpet Souk - Criee Berbere, which leads into Place Rahba Quedima, the apothecary square. It is instantly recognisable by the many colourful carpets hanging from the walls of every buildings and shop. This was originally the slave market until quite recently. In 1912 the French finally banned the practice when they took control of the country.

Get a very good map as there are a distinct lack of street signs. Most Hotels will provide you with a local complementary map. One of the best guide books on Marrakech with lots of good quality maps is just called “Marrakech” by Everyman MapGuides (ISBN 1 84159 073 8) published by Alfred A Knopf, New York

At night the souks are light up with electric light bulbs that reflect off all the shiny items for sale in the shops. The can be very dazzeling. Be aware that most of the souk shops close up between 8pm and 9pm. You can get lost very easily.

The main square - Place Jemaâ-el-fna
As you wander around the main square you will find there are different zones. The area in front of the big bank and small police station is snake and monkey country. If you hate the idea of any of these animals being put around your neck stay clear and walk around the edge of the square. Large crowds will gather to watch some of the dancers, acrobats, musicians and theatrical shows. You will be expected to pay money. Watch your bags and wallets as pick pockets love crowds, handbags and rucksacks. Wear your rucksack to the front rather than on your back. Never put property in your back pockets.

At night in the centre of the square are the food stalls with rows of benches in front of open barbeques and hot plates. The food is all freshly cooked and safe to eat. You will see all the steam and smoke rising up into the sky being illuminated by the bright light bulbs. Each stall has is own sales time that actively hunts new customers. They will stop and invite you to eat at their establishment. The best way to get rid of them is to say “later”. When you decide on the stall you like the look of just sit down at one of the benches. You will be given a number of standard small dishes even before your order; Moroccan bread, chips, vegetables, olives and a mild chopped tomato and herb dip. Ask for the menu and choose you main dish from meat or vegetable tagine and cuscus, sausages or fish. If there is a problem with local beggars just bring it to the attention of the staff and they will chase them away. Notice that a lot of the beggars have mobile phones and are wearing designer clothes with expensive trainers.

At the eastern end of the food stalls you will find a row of stalls selling snail soup and snails with bread. Behind them you will find another row of fresh fantastic orange juice sellers in between the nut and date merchants.

Taking Photos
The whole city is a frustrating photographer’s paradise. Be careful what you are photographing. Musicians, snake charmers, water sellers, storytellers, Dentists displaying heaps of teeth, monkey owners, acrobats and shopkeepers will demand money if they see you taking a photograph of them or if they think that they will be in it. Try to have a pocket of change. They will ask a high price like 200dh give them 5 – 10dh. They will protest but just walk away with a smile and mime that you do not have any more money. Pulling out the lining of a pocket and a shrug of your shoulder works well. Taking photographs of local Muslim woman can cause offence. If they are with a male relative you could be on the receiving end of hostile abuse that could end in violence and a smashed camera. You are in a Muslim country. Respect their ways. You might have to be patient, to get that uninterrupted photograph depending on how busy the location is. Use a polarised filter to bring out the blue of the sky.

Water Sellers
In the ‘old days’ Marrakech water sellers dressed in brightly coloured clothing and hats to advertise their services. Today they do sell water but they get most of their income from demanding money from tourists who want to take their photograph. If you have a good long lens find a concealed location and snap the picture. If they spot you then run. Don’t drink the water. If you are going to go to the Chez Ali Arabian themed dinner show they have staff dressed as authentic water sellers who will allow you to take as many photos as you like without asking for payment.

Henna Artists
Beware the Jemaâ-el-fna square henna artist as they may suddenly grab your arm as you pass. They will then thrust a catalogue of designs in your face and draw you towards other artists sitting on the floor. Even if you say you are not interested they may try to mark your hand with henna and demand money. If you decide you do want a henna tattoo be aware that they can last up to a month. Make sure you confirm the cost before you have it done. Try to get them to write down the price as they have a habit of increasing the price after they have finished. Pretend you do not under stand how much it will cost.

Cobras
The area in front of the Bank in Jemaâ-el-fna square is snake country. This is the area inhabited by the snake charmers and monkey men. If you hate the idea of touching a snake or having a snake put around your neck avoid this area at all costs. If a local motions you over to look at a tambourine on the ground. ignore him and walk away. They will try to beckon you closer and closer, and then they will suddenly turn it over revealing one or two hissing and spitting cobras that will suddenly jump up at you. If you just want to watch the snake charming show just put a few dirham coins in the hat when it comes round. If you are lurking around the snake charmers looking at what is going on do not be surprised if they suddenly come up to you and put a snake around your neck without asking permission. If you want to have a photograph holding a snake or with one around your neck it will cost you. Haggle and get the price low as they will demand a very high price at first. Do this BEFORE the picture is taken.

Monkeys
In the same area in front of the Bank in Jemaâ-el-fna square you will find men with cute looking monkeys. Avoid them unless you want to pay a lot of money for a picture of a monkey on your shoulder. The locals with these cute animals are very friendly and pleasant until it comes to the fee. The same advice applies as with the snake charmers. Haggle and get the price low as they will demand a very high price at first. Do this BEFORE the picture is taken. If business is slow they will search for a tourist standing still looking in the other direction. They will put a monkey on their shoulder and start demanding money to remove the monkey who is starting to pull at your hair. If you shudder at the thought of having a monkey or snake thrust upon you avoid the area in front of the Bank in Jemaâ-el-fna square.

The Local Police
The Marrakech authorities realise that the city greatly benefits form the money tourist bring to the city. They have taken great steps to try and clamp down on crime and the continual harassment of visitors by beggars. Apart from the pick pockets, Marrakech is normally a safe city. You can go anywhere except the old medina during night time. The Police will protect foreigners first before they would help a local. The police station in the main square Place Jemaâ-el-fna is easy to find. Look for the big bank building. It is just to the left hand side of the banks main entrance.

Haggling
You have to haggle. There are no fixed prices. Most of the stall holders speak some English as well as French. First work out what you want to pay for the item and how much that is in the local currency. When you ask how much, they will quote you some ridiculous price. They will start at say 400 you have to come back with a very low price like 50 You should be able to get it for 100 – 125. If they still say it is too low walk away. They will beg you to come back and will take the 125. They will appear all hurt that they are having to accept such a low price but remember they are still making an 200 – 400% profit. Do not ask the price unless you're prepared to bargain. Remember that all you see in the Marrakech shops that glitters is not gold and all that is black is not ebony. Some of the things on sale you can get cheaper at home. Remember the walk away trick it works every time.

The Marrakech Museum
After doing battle with all the souk traders in the alleys of the kasbah it a pleasant relief to find the peace and tranquillity of the Marrakech Museum court yard café. The toilets are clean and the food is okay. One of the simple snacks served was boiled eggs and bead. Nothing strange and startling there but what was different was that it was served with a sprinkling of cumin spice. What a lovely combination. Make sure you buy a three in one ticket that covers the Marrakech Museum, The Medersa Ben Youssef Koran School and Qobba Almoravide the old Ben Youssef Mosque wash room. The are all next to each other. Non Muslims are not allowed in any of Marrakech’s Mosques. This is your opportunity to see some splendid Moorish achitecture with splendid inner courtyards and richly decorated internal walls. They are a pleasure for the eye to see.

Driving in Marrakech
It is mad. Don’t do it hire a taxi. The Marrakech Moroccans are the worst drivers I have ever seen. They do not abide by the normal rules of the road. They barge their way into the smallest gap and intimidate other drivers by the constant sounding of their horns. They cut people up and overtake on the wrong side of the road even when there is traffic in the other carriageway. They do not give way at traffic junctions or roundabouts.

Storks
When you are walking around Marrakech look up. You may see storks nesting on the city walls or flying around in circles catching the thermals. They also hang around in groups in trees on the outskirts of the city. Other bird life is not so exotic. Being in North Africa you would think that the place would be swarming with different unusual birds. Wrong, most of the birds you see are exactly the same as those you find in your back garden like sparrows, pigeons, starlings and blackbirds.

Pollution and Smells
It is the smells of Marrakech that assault your senses. Donkey pooh and urine mixed with the airborne sent of spices and food. Around the edge of town the exhaust from the main older diesel cars, lorries and taxis get down your throat. It is a third world country. You will find litter and rotting food in the gutters and on the streets. Look out for the stray cats with strange long legs eating the rubbish

Red Double decker open air bus guided tours
You buy a 24 hour ticket on the bus and you can hop on and off when you like. There is commentary in Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Japanese and Russian. You can join the tour at various points: Office du tourisme, Hôtel Agda, Hôtel Royal Mirage, La Ménara, Casino de Marrakech, Place de la Liberté, Palace El Badi, Place Jemaa El Fna, Hôtel Le Marrakech, La Poste, Palais des Congres, Hotel Andalous, Theatre Royal, Hotel N'Fis Meridien, Hotel de Ville, La Koutoubia, La Mamounia and Tombeaux saadiens

The Menara Pavilion and olive grove
There is not much to see but it is a welcome break from the madness of the souks. You can walk there, get a taxi or jump off the red tourist double drecker bus. It is a pleasant place to go for a walk. The Pavilion is built next to a large square water reservoir that provides irrigation to the surrounding olive groves. It is the setting for a number or theatrical and musical shows. On the far side of the reservoir there are some stadium seats. Behind that is a pleasant café which has near some palm trees. The toilets are located about 15 yards away and are very clean. Have some small change to pay the lady at the door.

Camel Riding
Around the outskirts of Marrakech you will see teams of camels and their owners. Most are operating on the desert rocky scrubland near the major roads. Not a very pleasant location to go for a ride. Wait until you visit the Menara Pavilion. As you get near the water reservoir you will see some camel owners offering rides for about 50 dirham. Do not use the ones near the entrance to the Menara Olive Groves as they still walk around the scrubland. The ones inside take you for a walk around the olive groves. The camels like it as they can have a secret munch of olive leaves as they walk pass. They are happy and you have fun too. Hold on very very tight when the camel gets up and sits down.

The Very Smelly Tannery Quarter
You will find the Tanneries to the east of the Medina old town close to the Bab ed Debbagh Gate. This is where the local leather is dyed and dried. The smell is horrendous. As you get near several locals will offer to take you on a guided tour. Agree the price first and make sure it is for all of you in your party and not per person. Some ‘guides’ will not mention a price and take you to a leather shop at the end of your visit. They will get a back hand payment from the shopkeeper. They will expect you to buy some leather goods. If you try to walkout without paying your guide will appear again and demand a lot of money for the tour. Mention that you want to speak to the tourist police. If they have been acting as an unofficial guide they can go to prison. Your request to speak to the police should make them change their manner. The tourist police are very good and feared by the locals.

Marrakech Water
In theory the Marrakech water from the tap is safe to drink but I would not risk it. Buy your drinking water in a bottle. French Evian water is available in many shops. Before you buy it make sure that the bottle cap is still unopened. One of the local scams is to collect used Evian bottles and replace the water with tap water.

Flowers
Do not pick any of the exotic looking beautiful, flowers growing in Marrakech. You will find them mainly in public gardens. It is strictly forbidden and punishable with a jail sentence. Moroccan police cells are not a nice place to spend any time. Leave the plants and flowers alone and have a great holiday.

Guide Tours
If you feel happier hiring a guide or going on a guided tour, double check what you are going to see before you go. Some guides have a habit of directing you towards shops that they get a back hand payment from. Tell them that you do not want to go to shops. You want to only see the sights this trip. Your hotel can arrange a personal guide or a tour. Insist that your guide can speak good English. Guides can help give you a historic background to the places you visit and keep the beggars away. You do not really need a guide as you can walk to and around all the main tourist sites on your own.

When you enter the old town you will be pestered by people asking you if you want a guide. Some will say that it is dangerous to go around the Medina (old town) on your own. This is not true. Once you are in the souks this type of pestering calms down and is replaced by shop keepers trying to get you into their shops. Don’t believe anyone who approaches you and says they work at your hotel. It is just a trick to get into your confidence. Another trick is telling you that they can take you to the difficult to find ‘berber market’ that only opens one day a week. The market is open every day. If you say you do not want to go with them as you are going to a specific location they will tell you that that place is closed today.

Mint Tea
The local popular drink is mint tea. You either love it or hate it. You may find shop keepers offering you a glass whilst your are conducting business. Try it once.

Coconut Macaroon Cookies
When you see a women walking around with trays of circular cookies stop her and buy some. They are amazing. They cost next to nothing.

Chez Ali – Arabian Evening Dining Fantasia
The Chez Ali experience is a must. Yes it is for tourist but it is very well done and worth every cent of the entrance price. Just ask your Hotel reception to book you a place. They will arrange transport that will pick you up from your hotel and bring you back. The venue is out of town on the Safi road. It has been established for over 25 years and is on a purpose built 11 hectare sight. They have built a make believe Arabian walled city centred around an arena. This is your chance to experience the sights and sounds of Morocco while eating a 5 course meal.

Disney style grand Arabic buildings surround the arena. In front of them are large colourful tents. As you enter the city gates your are greeted by mounted Arab traditional horsemen. Inside your photograph is taken with traditionally dressed Moroccans. If you like the photograph you can purchase a copy as you leave. There is no pressure so smile for the camera. You are then directed to one of the giant Bedouin tents. You sit around a large table with others from your group. Great tasting soup is served first with Moroccan bread followed by half a barbequed lamb. Make sure you come to Chez Ali hungry as there is lots of food to eat. After you have finished with the lamb, great bowls of chicken covered with couscous (cooked plumped semolina grains) and vegetables are brought to your table. Pudding is a bisteeya, wonderful vanilla custard covered pancake pie and then a large plate of fruit is put on the table. The cost of the drinks are not included in the price of the ticket. You can buy alcohol. Whilst you are eating musicians and dancers visit each tent and entertain the dinners.

When everyone is finished the tents are emptied and the seats around the arena are filled. The evening show starts off with acrobatic horsemen charging around the ring at high speed jumping on and off their mounts. Next it is the turn of the Lawrence of Arabia period desert horsemen to put on a show. They carry ancient long breach muskets that make a very very loud noise when fired in unison. If you have young children cover their ears. The next show is put on by a group of dancers that finishes with a belly dancer being transported to the central stage on the back of camel. She strips off to her dancing outfit and starts strutting her stuff. The end of the show is heralded by a loud fireworks display. You now realise why Chez Ali is situated in the middle of nowhere. If your visiting Chez Ali in winter wear a very warm jacket as the show takes place outside at night and it gets very cold. Gloves, warm socks and a hat are very useful.

High Atlas Mountains Day Trip
Speak to your hotel reception desk about arranging a day trip into the High Atlas Mountains. They will pick you up from outside your hotel at about 9.30am and return you around 4.30pm. The trip takes you into the Vallée de l’Ourika which is part of the Toubkal National Park. The central attraction is Mount Toubkal standing at 13,665 feet 4,165m. It is Morocco’s highest mountain and is situated 40 miles (60KM) south of Marrakech. The coach keeps stopping for you take photos of the magnificent views of the snow capped mountains.

The scenery keeps changing, as you get nearer to the mountains. The flat rocky desert scrubland changes to farm land in the foothills with deep brown soil then suddenly the land turns deep red. The buildings of the local hill villages are also red as they use the local building materials. Nearer the mountains the landscape changes yet again to a lime green coloured rock. The coach will stop at a Berber house. This is an opportunity to see how the locals live. An enterprising farmer realised that he could make money out of letting tourist walk around his farmstead for cash and it was more profitable then ploughing rocky fields. There are lots of rope bridges spanning across the river linking both sides of the valley. The rope has been changed to thick wire but the planking is still very rickety. You coach will stop to allow you to have a go at crossing to the other side and taking photographs. The trip takes you to the last village in the valley, Setti Fatma. This is where the road ends. Disappointingly it is not very high and there is not a lot to see.

On the way back to Marrakech you stop at a newly constructed Moroccan restaurant set in valley at the bend of the river. The views of the Mountains are magnificent form the terrace where you eat a wonderful lunch (The cost of the lunch is not included in the price of the trip) They serve alcohol. The Flag Special Marrakech beer is good. The restaurant is traditionally decorated and the toilets are clean.

A Quick History of Morocco
The original people of Morocco were the tribal Berbers, an ancient race who speak a language distantly related to Egyptian and Hebrew. The name ‘Berbers’, was imposed on them by the Arabs meaning those who were not Arabs. In the twelfth century BC Morocco was invaded by the Phoenicians who come from what is now Syria, Jordan, Lebanon, Israel, and Palestine. They established trade centres at several points along the North African and Spanish coasts. The Carthaginians, who originated in north east Africa, modern Tunisia, later took over these Phoenician colonies and expanded them as part of their mighty independent Punic Empire. Later the Greeks visited the coastal settlements and established trading houses. The Roman Empire then marched in during the 2nd century BC. They introduced the word ‘Moor’ (Maur) as a general term for the dark skinned North Africans. (Later it became a general term for a muslim.) The Romans stayed for six hundred years and morocco was part of the Roman province known as Mauretania Caesaria. Christianity became the official religion around 150AD. The Roman Empire fell apart around 410AD and their soldiers were recalled to defend the homeland.

The Vandals, a Germanic tribe that had moved into the Roman province of Iberia (now Spain) were known for disorder, giving rise to the term "vandalism". The Roman Empire gave the Vandals permission to move into their old North African province. In 429AD very nearly the entire population of 30,000 Vandals, moved in one mass. They had come for the wealth of the North African. The Vandals were never good administrators and the urban centres and trade routes declined, draining away what wealth there had been. The Berber tribes controlled outlying areas and because they continued to war with each other they could not join together to kick out the invader.

Part of what was left of the old Roman Empire transformed into the Byzantine Empire. In 533AD they attempt to reunify the lands that had been once controlled by Rome and drove the Vandals out of the North Africa. Their control in the Morocco was never really strong, consisting mainly of a few military outposts. The Berbers still retained a certain amount of autonomy.

In 670AD the power of Islam was expanding and the Arabs moved west into the North African costal plain and later invaded Morocco in 683AD. The last outpost of the Byzantine Empire was deserted in the early part of the 8th Century.

All of North Africa was now Muslim under Arab control. Over the next few years tribal in fighting meant that different cities and regions were controlled by different groups.

In 711, the North African Moors invaded Visigoth, Christian Spain. Under their leader, an African Berber general named Tariq, they conquered most of the Spanish peninsula and placed it under North African control for over 600 years until the last remaining Moorish fortress at Granada surrendered to the Christian army in 1492.

In 1502 Spanish and Portuguese Jews and Moors were expelled by the conquering Christians. They settled in Morocco and brought with them their cultures, arts and crafts that had a major influence on Morocco as can be seen at the Marrakech Museum. The country flourished and prospered. It became a centre for the arts. This period became known as Morocco's golden age. Morocco became united and remained independent from the rising power of the Ottoman Turks who took control of nearby Algeria and Tunisia came into the Ottoman sphere.

The expanding maritime power of the Christian Spanish and Portuguese during the 15th century lead to fighting between for control of the North African Coastal Ports. In 1578 however, the Moroccans beat the Portuguese and regained control of the port of Cueta, and by 1700 Morocco had taken control of almost all of coastal towns that were under Portugal's rule.

During the 17th century European colonialism replaced Turkish domination. The coast of Morocco and the rest of North Africa came under attack from the English, Spanish, French, and Danish as they "liberated" North Africa from the Ottoman Empire.

In 1904, the Moroccan Sahara was shared out, under a secret treaty, between France and Spain. Casablanca was attacked by the French in 1907. A Protectorate Treaty dividing Morocco into French, Spanish and international zones of influence was signed on March 30,1912.

In 1904 Morocco was divided between France and Spain. France received the larger portion. Germany wanted in too so in 1911 a German gunboat was sent to the French owned coastline of Morocco. War was averted though, when the French made an agreement with Germany whereby the French would keep control of Morocco, whilst they allowed the Germans concessions elsewhere.

The French regained control of Morocco after World War Two. In 1950 the sultan of Morocco requested that Morocco become an independent country. The first request was declined. The French deported the Royal Family to Corsica. Violence towards the French officials resulted from that decision. In December 1956, The sultan was taken to France, where he signed a declaration promising that there would be a constitutional monarchy in a democratic state. In March 1956, the French signed an agreement in which they granted full independence to Morocco. The Spanish did the same and Tangier lost its international status during the same year. In 1957 the Sultan Mohammed became king of an independent Morocco. In 1961, King Mohamed V was succeeded by Crown Prince Hassan II who presented a new constitution. The first elected parliament assembled on 1963.